Tasting & Smelling
The techniques of tasting enhance the ability
to perceive wine clearly. They're actually pretty
simple and follow logically through a well-define
series of steps. Some of the procedures may
seem unnatural or to the uninitiated, but they've
been developed over centuries to achieve specific
ends. After a while, they become automatic.
Professional tasters prefer a day-lit, odor-free
room with white walls and tabletops, in order
to throw the wine into the clearest possible
relief, but in the end it's a sterile environment
that improves analysis at the cost of pleasure.
To maximize both enjoyment and understanding,
serve your wine at a dinner party with friends;
comfortable chairs, warm light and good food
create an ambience where the wines and the guests
can express themselves without constraint or
reproach.
Remember that tasting is not a test--your
subjective response is more important than any
"right answers." The bottom line is:
Wine that tastes good to you is good wine. And
no matter how advanced your technique, tasting
is not an exact science.
Sensitivities vary widely when it comes to
flavor and aroma. These differences are both
physiological and cultural. When test groups
of French and Germans were given wine with 8
grams of sugar per liter, 92 percent of the
Germans called the wine "dry" while
only 7 percent of the French did. Their reference
points were different: German whites are more
often frankly sweet than French ones, so the
German tasters were less sensitive to sugar
in their wines. The goal in tasting wine is
not to "find" the same aromas and
flavors some other taster is describing. If
you have your own perceptual abilities and develop
your own vocabulary to articulate them, you'll
not only derive more pleasure from the wine
itself, but also stimulate better communication.
You can be mesmerized by wine's flashing colors
and hypnotized into dreamy reverie by its evocative
aromas, but actually drinking the wine is what
loosens the tongue, opens the arms and consummates
the liquid's true purpose. You might think it's
the easiest part, too. After all, you learned
to drink from a cup when you were 2-years old
and have been practicing diligently ever since.
There is a huge distinction between swallowing
and tasting, the same gulf that yawns between
simply hearing and truly listening. Once again,
correct technique is essential to full appreciation.
With the aromas still reverberating through
your senses, put the glass to your lips and
take some liquid in. How much? That depends
on the size of your mouth. But too little is
as ineffective as too much. I find that one-third
to one-half an ounce is just about right. You
need to have enough volume to work it all around
your tasting apparatus, but not so much that
you're forced to swallow right away. Because
you don't want to swallow, not just yet. It
takes time and effort to force the wine to divulge
its secrets. I keep a pleasant wine in my mouth
for 10 to 15 seconds, sometimes more. Roll the
wine all around your mouth, bringing it into
contact with every part, because each decodes
a different aspect of the liquid. Wine provokes
sensations, too: The astringency of tannins
is most perceptible on the inner cheeks; the
heat of the alcohol burns in the back of the
throat. The strength of these taste sensations
can be amplified through specialized techniques
that, frankly, are more appropriate to the tasting
lab than the dining room. But if the wine is
seductive enough, you may not be able to resist.
First, as you hold the wine in your mouth, purse
your lips and inhale gently through them. This
creates a bubbling noise children find immensely
amusing. It also accelerates vaporization, intensifying
the aromas. Second, chew the wine vigorously,
sloshing it around in your mouth, to draw every
last nuance of flavor from the wine. Don't forget
the finish. After you swallow, exhale gently
and slowly through both your nose and mouth.
The retronasal passage, which connects the throat
and the nose, is another avenue for aromas,
which can linger long after the wine is finally
swallowed. You'll find that the better the wine,
the more complex, profound and long-lasting
these residual aromas can be. With great wines,
sensitive tasters and minimal distractions,
the finish can last a minute or more. It's a
moment of meditation and communion that no other
beverage can create.
Why is smelling a wine important?
What can you conclude about a wine from its
smell?
Have you ever wondered why wine connoisseurs
always swirl a glass of wine before smelling
or tasting? Swirling releases molecules in the
wine that allow you to smell the aroma, also
called the bouquet or nose. There are two main
techniques that wine tasters use:
- Take a quick whiff and formulate an initial
impression, then take a second deeper whiff.
- or . . . Take only one deep whiff.
Either way, after you smell the wine, sit back
and ponder the aroma. Don't try to "taste"
the wine yet, concentrate only on what you smell.
What did you smell? It may be difficult to
describe in words when you're a novice, but
after trying many wines you will notice certain
similarities and differences. Sometimes a certain
smell will be very strong with underlying hints
of other smells. Take your time and differentiate
by labeling an aroma you will probably remember
it better. You may even want to keep a notebook
of your impressions of wines, and/or save the
labels; next time you see the wine you won't
have to purchase it or open it to know if you
like it.
Later, as you taste the wine in your mouth,
your sense of smell adds complexity to the taste.
Your tongue only recognises four sensations
(sweetness, sourness, saltiness, and bitterness),
while aroma receptors at the back of the tongue
clarify the taste. Your sense of smell can also
warn you that a wine smells "off",
or is defective.
